A fórmula matemática dos lábios perfeitos

Copyright: 123RF Stock Photos

Sem dúvida, a grande inspiração da arte é a beleza, seja de uma paisagem, um objeto, ou até imagens mais complexas, como o corpo humano. Desde que o mundo é mundo, os grandes artistas retrataram com perfeição rostos que até hoje são referências históricas do culto ao belo. E filósofos como Aristóteles também definiam o belo como a tradução da ordem. Por esta razão, o mestre dos mestres, Leonardo Da Vinci, criou a Proporção Divina, também chamada de Proporção Áurea, uma fórmula matemática que calcula as proporções ideais da face. Segundo Da Vinci e sua obra Homem Vitruviano, no homem perfeito, as dimensões obedecem a divina proporção; o umbigo divide a altura do corpo humano em dois segmentos que estão na razão áurea. O ombro, por sua vez, divide a distância entre as extremidades dos dedos (braços abertos) em dois segmentos que estão na mesma razão áurea.

No rosto não é diferente. O tamanho dos lábios deve estar em conformidade com o equilíbrio de todo o rosto, respeitando a individualidade de cada um. A matemática é tão eficaz para esses casos que, ela tem papel de extrema importância na cirurgia plástica, que explora essa ciência na busca dos melhores resultados e da perfeita harmonia da boca com a face. "A teoria da Proporção Áurea pode ser um excelente guia para atingir o sucesso clínico da estética, sendo um método de simetria dinâmica que diagnostica e direciona o tratamento ao sucesso", confirma o Cirurgião Plástico e Cosmiatra, Márcio Castan, de Porto Alegre (RS), membro da Sociedade Brasileira de Cirurgia Plástica (SBCP).

Segundo a Proporção Áurea, a proporção ideal é de 1 para 1,618, sendo essa a relação de equilíbrio e simetria ideais. Ou seja, no caso do rosto, a largura da boca deve ser 1,618 maior do que a largura do nariz. E a largura da boca ideal, por sua vez, deve ser 1,618 maior do que a distância entre seu canto externo e a ponta da bochecha. As proporções entre os lábios também é observada, sendo o lábio inferior maior que o superior.

O médico observa que a teoria da Proporção Áurea pode ser aplica em diversas outras especialidades, sobretudo na odontologia, e em outras regiões do corpo. "Para se ter uma ideia, existem proporções entre os dedos e as mãos porque as falanges de cada dedo estão relacionadas em uma proporção perfeita. Na cabeça observamos como a linha dos olhos marca uma divisão áurea no comprimento total da face, e também a linha da boca é uma proporção áurea da distância entre a base do nariz e a extremidade do queixo, comprovando que um corpo esteticamente harmonioso traz relações áureas", diz Dr. Castan.

O cirurgião ainda observa que, embora as medidas matemáticas sejam importantes, nem sempre os cálculos são a melhor maneira para determinar a simetria ideal, afinal, a beleza é subjetiva, e não uma ciência exata. O médico também aposta em outros métodos para rejuvenescer os lábios e deixá-los em harmonia com a face:

• Hidratação: O fato de usar batom e os lábios estarem geralmente úmidos, pode mascarar a desidratação labial. Então, opte por batons que contenham óleos hidratantes e, principalmente, filtro solar, pois além de deixar a boca bonita, estará protegendo-a de possíveis patologias causadas pelo sol. Lembre-se de usar hidratantes labiais, que devem conter ácido hialurônico, ceramidas e ômegas 3.

• Rugas ao redor da boca (chamadas popularmente de código de barras): Elas podem ser tratadas com peelings, tanto químicos quanto abrasivos, ou hidratação intradérmica com ácido hialurônico.

• Aumento de volume /melhora do contorno/ correção de imperfeições: Pode ser feito tanto com material aloplástico, absorvível (ácido hialurônico) ou não absorvível (polimetacrilato), bem como com gordura remanejada do próprio paciente, adquirida após lipoaspiração, por exemplo. No caso do ácido hialurônico, a duração é de 9 a 12 meses. Dr. Marcio Castan não recomenda a inserção de material não absorvível, porque o número de complicações é muito maior se comparado ao ácido hialurônico.

• Redução dos lábios: A redução dos lábios, embora pouco requisitada, também é possível em casos específicos.

Fonte: Dr. Marcio Castan - Cirurgião Plástico - Membro da Sociedade Brasileira de Cirurgia Plástica, Pós-graduado em Dermatocosmiatria.

O mercado de Skin Care na América Latina

No post anterior falei que eu tenho uma coluna na revista americana Happi, que é especializada no mercado cosmético. Recentemente fiz uma matéria sobre o mercado de Skin Care na América Latina: "Skin Care Sales Flourish Throughout Latin America" :

Whether it’s to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, whiten skin or protect against UV radiation, skin care is an important concern of people around the world. Regardless if it’s a department store counter in Canada, a supermarket in Uruguay or a website in Vietnam, skin care is a very competitive market where a brand’s success often depends on the frequency of product launches, an ability to keep up with trends, adoption of new technology and formula improvements, and educating consumers through intense advertising campaigns, for which market participants need substantial investments.

In Latin America, skin care is still dominated by multinational companies, such as Avon Products and Beiersdorf, but some domestic companies are growing in prominence. One of them is the Peruvian company Belcorp, which had sales of $1.7 billion in 2012 and expects 2013 sales to reach $2 billion, in 15 countries in Latin America and in the US. 

Brazil is the No. 1 cosmetics market in Latin America, and Belcorp began operations there at the end of 2011. Belcorp executives rightly consider it one of the most important company projects, as its goal is to be one of the three largest players in the Brazilian market within the next five years. The growth of the middle class facilitated the start of operations in the country. At present, 20% of the company’s products are manufactured through partnerships with local companies, but by 2015, Belcorp will invest $200 million in Brazil, and may build a factory in the country. 

Belcorp, through its skin care brand L’Bel, has launched the Lederm line, which promises to treat the facial skin as a whole, acting simultaneously in all layers and not separately. The treatment line was created by a team of French dermatologists, led by Philippe Humbert, with help from Dermaconcept and Labosphere Laboratories. Lederm’s formula was developed according to cellular homeostasis principles, also known as skin’s functional balance. According to this concept, the aging signals begin when the skin’s natural balance is lost due to cellular oxidation and other stressors, which begin to accumulate in skin by age 30.  Therefore the formula has different active ingredients to act according to age (35+, 45+, 55+), for all skin types. Its promise is to nourish and to restore the skin, regaining the balance, in just seven days. The line includes day cream with SPF, night cream and eye contour treatment. 

Mexico’s Genomma Lab Internacional SAB is growing quickly throughout Latin America. Its brand, Asepxia, which includes anti-acne and cleansing products, has helped change the way young people handle acne problems. Genomma’s campaign urges prevention of acne rather than treatment to combat facial blemishes. This strategy convinces consumers to use more products even when they do not have an immediate need for them. 

Genomma’s products also respond to specific needs, such as leg pain, extreme dryness and prevention of stretch marks. Its other skin care brands include Cicatricure, a line of anti-aging, firming and cell-regeneration body creams; Goicochea anti-cellulite products; Tío Nacho body cream; Teatrical facial and body cream; and SilkaMedic foot care products. 

Natura dominates its home market of Brazil,...

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A competição está acirrada no mercado de beleza

Estava ausente aqui no blog nos últimos meses, mas estou de volta ! Tenho uma coluna na revista americana Happi - Household and Personal Products Industry, que é especializada no mercado cosmético. Abaixo tem a matéria "Competition Is Fierce In Brazilian Beauty" que inclui uma entrevista que fiz com o presidente executivo do Grupo Boticário.

During the past 15 years, Brazil’s personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics sector sextupled to R$34 billion ($16.8 billion). In that time, Brazil became the world’s No. 1 market in fragrance, deodorant and children’s toiletries; the No. 2 market for bath care, hair care, men’s care, oral care and sun care and the No. 3 market for makeup.

What’s driving this dynamic growth? It is the increased buying power of the emerging middle classes. Once only purchasing the very basic products for day-to-day living, Brazilians are spending more and more on creams, lipsticks and perfumes. The aging population and the growth of women in the workforce have also boosted cosmetics sales.

And the competition is fierce, as more companies make big investments. The retail sector changed dramatically last year with the arrival of Sephora, which brought several new brands to Brazilians. Bare Minerals also entered the country last year and more brands are expected to follow, which should only make competition even more fierce. But local companies are fighting back. In 2011, the Boticário Group, which has more than 3,600 stores, launched its second brand, Eudora, via the direct sales channel. In 2012 the company achieved turnover of R$6.6 billion ($3.2 billion) and launched three new units: the Skingen Genetic Intelligence in facial skincare; franchise network Quem Disse, Berenice? in the makeup category, which inspires women to find their own way to become more beautiful; and The Beauty Box, a multi-brand retail network, which offers 60 of the best brands, including domestic and imported products. Just last year, 1,600 products were launched, including 500 within Quem Disse, Berenice?

Artur Grynbaum
Boticário Group, Executive President
Foto: Guilherme Pupo

According to Artur Grynbaum, executive president, Boticário Group, the company’s gains coincide with Brazil’s growing clout on the global beauty stage. For example, he noted that Brazil is about to surpass Japan as the No. 2 beauty market in the world, trailing only the US, according to statistics compiled by the Brazilian Association for the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrances Industry (Abihpec).

"Our economy has reached a stable level, with a robust financial system and is ready to face crises. The growth and the entry of new consumers meant more opportunities offered by the sector and the Boticário Group is aligned to this scenario challenges,” explained Grynbaum. “Our goal is to take part, in a relevant way, in the country’s growth. Our way to reach this is to meet the consumer needs at every opportunity. Hence, the launch of new business units, with different value propositions for different consumers, as well as new products, which reached 1,600 in 2012."

Fragrance remains the flagship product category at Boticário Group, but considering the recent launch of Quem Disse, Berenice’s 500 SKUs, the new Beauty Box business and the partial acquisition of Frajo (a Brazilian cosmetics importer whose brands include Revlon, Artdeco, La Perla, Lolita Lempicka and others) and it appears that the next step for the company is toward makeup and premium categories.

"The histories of Brazilian perfumery and O Boticário blend themselves, and we seek a strong performance in this category,” noted Grynbaum. “But we understand beauty as a matter that involves multiple categories."

Company executives are determined to consolidate these new business units and continue to invest in the categories that are already on the market.

Meeting Consumers’ Desires

"The Boticário Group wants to answer all consumer needs and desires when it comes to beauty,” he explained. “The consumer is multifaceted. We need to be in people’s lives with different brands, products and channels. Each of these operations brings its own value proposition. And that is how we intend to maintain the Boticário Group as a leading organization in the world of beauty."

For now, much of O Boticário’s efforts are focused on its home market. Grynbaum told Happi that only makes sense since, for the moment, Brazil is one of the top performers in the global economy. But the company also has operations in eight other countries - Portugal, US, Japan, Angola, Mozambique, Saudi Arabia, Venezuela and Paraguay.

For the sixth year, Boticário is sponsoring São Paulo Fashion Week, Latin America’s most important fashion event. The company also acquired shares in Scalina Group, which owns lingerie and pantyhose brands. While the link between beauty and fashion is strong, the company has no plans to enter fashion directly.

"The São Paulo Fashion Week sponsorship is aligned to the proposal that beauty and fashion go together, embodied in our line Make B., and the SPFW is a place that expresses this concept in a creative and democratic way,” according to Grynbaum.  “Boticário has been the master sponsor of the SPFW since 2011 and this partnership has shown very relevant to the brand consolidation, reinforcing that we are always connected to the fashion market trends."

He called the 2011 acquisition of a minority interest in Scalina Group, Brazil’s largest manufacturer and retailer of women’s intimate apparel, part of his company’s diversification strategy.

On the subject of active ingredients for skin care, Grynbaum noted that O Boticário owns Labim, a molecular biology laboratory, in partnership with the University Positivo, to develop formulas that will expand the company’s portfolio and delight consumers who, he pointed out, are more informed than ever before and are eager to search out new options and new brand experiences.

"The Brazilian cosmetics industry is experiencing a great moment, which puts us in the global spotlight,” he told Happi. “This drives us even more to continue investing in quality products and services. Brazil has a very large market potential in this segment, which only makes us dream about ever greater conquests."

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